TABLE OF CONTENTS
- Step 1: Verify that our home is equipped and up-to-date for proper operations
- Step 2: Verify that the location is appropriate
- Step 3: Removing The Old Water Heater
- Step 4: Installing The New Water Heater
- Step 5: Connecting The Condensate Pump When Required
- Step 6: Install Condensate Drain Lines
- Step 7: Connect The Temperature And Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve / Pipe
- Step 8: Install Shut – Off And Mixing Valves
- Step 9: Connect The Water Supply
- Step 10: Verify Connections And Completely Fill Tank
- Step 11: Make Electrical Connections
- Step 12: Adjusting The Temperature
STEP 1: VERIFY THAT YOUR HOME IS EQUIPPED AND UP-TO-DATE FOR PROPER OPERATION
Installing a new water heater is the perfect time to examine your home’s plumbing system and make sure the system is up to current code standards. There have likely been plumbing code changes since the old water heater was installed. We recommend installing the following accessories and any other needed changes to bring your home up to the latest code requirements.
Use this checklist and inspect your home. Install any devices you need to comply with codes and assure that your new water heater performs at its best. Check with your local plumbing official for more information.
We recommend checking your home’s water pressure with a pressure gauge. Most codes allow a maximum incoming water pressure of 80 psi/550 kpa. We recommend a working pressure no higher than 50-60 psi/345-414 kpa.
HOW: Purchase an inexpensive water pressure gauge. Connect the Water Pressure Gauge to an outside faucet and measure the maximum water pressure experienced throughout the day (highest water pressures often occur at night).
To limit your home’s water pressure: Locate your home’s Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) on the main incoming (cold) water supply line and adjust the water pressure control to between 50 and 60 psi. If your home does not have a Pressure Reducing Valve, install a PRV on the home’s main water supply line and set it to between 50 and 60 psi.
BACKGROUND: Over the years, many utilities have increased water supply pressures so they can serve more homes. In some homes today, pressures exceed 100 psi. High water pressures can damage water heaters, causing premature leaks. If you have replaced toilet valves, had a water heater leak, or had to repair appliances connected to the plumbing system, pay particular attention to your home’s water pressure. When purchasing a PRV, make sure the PRV has a built-in bypass.
WATER PRESSURE/ THERMAL EXPANSION
Verify that you have a properly sized Thermal Expansion Tank. We recommend installing an expansion tank if your home does not have one. Codes require a properly pressurized, properly sized Thermal Expansion Tank in almost all homes.
HOW: Connect the Thermal Expansion Tank to the cold water supply line near the water heater. The expansion tank contains a bladder and an air charge. To work properly, the Thermal Expansion Tank must be sized according to the water heater’s tank capacity and pressurized to match the home’s incoming water pressure. Refer to the installation instructions provided with the Thermal Expansion Tank for installation details.
BACKGROUND: Water expands when heated, and the increased volume of water must have a place to go, or thermal expansion will cause large increases in water pressure (despite the use of a Pressure Reducing Valve on the home’s main water supply line). The Safe Drinking Water Act of 1974 requires the use of backflow preventers and check valves to restrict water from your home reentering the public water system. Backflow preventers are often installed in water meters and may not be readily visible. As a result, most all plumbing systems today are now “closed,“ and almost all homes now need a Thermal Expansion Tank.
A Thermal Expansion Tank is a practical and inexpensive way to help avoid damage to the water heater, washing machine, dishwasher, ice maker and even toilet valves. If your toilet occasionally runs for no apparent reason (usually briefly at night), that may be due to thermal expansion increasing the water pressure temporarily.
WATER PIPE AND TANK LEAKS
Leaks from plumbing pipes or from the water heater itself can damage property and could cause a fire risk.
- Install an automatic leak detection and shutoff device. These devices can detect water leaks and can shut off the water heater’s water supply if a leak occurs.
- Install a suitable drain pan under the water heater to catch condensation or leaks in the piping connections or tank. Most codes require and we recommend installing the water heater in a drain pan that is piped to an adequate drain. The drain pan must be at least 2”/50mm wider than the diameter of the water heater. Install the drain pan so the water level would be limited to a maximum depth of 1-3/4”/45mm.
WATER TEMPERATURE REGULATION
- Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves to regulate the temperature of the water supplied to each point-of-use (for example, kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bath, and shower). Consult the valve manufacturer’s instructions or a qualified person.
- WARNING! Even if the water heater thermostat is set to a relatively low temperature, hot water can scald. Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding.
BACKGROUND: A Thermostatic Mixing Valve, installed at each point-of-use, mixes hot water from the water heater with cold water to more precisely regulate the temperature of hot water supplied to fixtures. If you aren’t sure if your plumbing system is equipped with properly installed and adjusted Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point where hot water is used, contact a qualified person for more information.
STEP 2: VERIFY THAT THE LOCATION IS APPROPRIATE
Before installing your water heater, ensure that:
- The water heater will be:
- Installed indoors close to the center of the plumbing system.
- In a suitable drain pan piped to an adequate floor drain or external to the building.
- In an area that will not freeze
- In an area that is suitable for installing the water heater vertically and on a level surface.
- Install where a typical home appliance sound would not cause a disturbance
- Should not be used for space heating.
NOTICE: Water heater must be level!
- The location has adequate space (clearances) for periodic servicing. For optimal water heater efficiency, the unit must have unrestricted airflow and requires a minimum installation space of 700 cubic feet. As an example, a room that has an 8 foot tall ceiling and is 10 feet long by 8-3/4 feet wide would contain 700 cubic feet.NOTICE: This Heat Pump Water Heater may be located within a required minimum of 6“ clearance from a wall on the outlet side, however for future service considerations, a minimum of 3 feet from any obstruction on the back, left and right side is recommended.
- The floor can support the weight of a full water heater.
- 40 Gallon =
- 50 Gallon = 573 lbs
- 65 Gallon = 796 lbs
- 80 Gallon = 921 lbs
- Your area is not prone to earthquakes. If it is, use special straps as required by local building codes.NOTICE: The state of California re- quires bracing, anchoring, or strapping the water heater to avoid its moving during an earthquake. Contact local utilities for code requirements in your area, visit http://www.dsa.dgs.ca.gov, or call 1-916-445-8100 and request instructions. Other locations may have similar requirements. Check with your local and state authorities.
- The location is not prone to physical damage by vehicles, flooding, or other risks.
- Avoid locations such as attics, upper floors, or where a leak might damage the structure or furnishings. Due to the normal corrosive action of water, the tank will eventually leak. To minimize property damage from leaks, inspect and maintain your water heater in accordance with this manual’s instructions. Inspect the drain pan, pipes, and surrounding area regularly and fix any leaks found. Leaks are frequently in the plumbing system itself and not the water heater.
- The unit cannot be placed into any type of closet or small enclosure, unless adequate provisions are made for air exchange (vented or louvered doors, etc.).
- To ensure optimal performance and serviceability, a minimum clearance of 6 inches must be maintained from all sides and 6 inches from the top for access to the air filter.
- Water heaters located in unconditioned spaces (i.e., garages, basements etc.) may require the water piping, condensate piping, and drain piping to be insulated to guard from freezing.
- The air filter, condensation drain and controls must be easily accessible for operation and service.
- The site location must be free from any corrosive elements in the atmosphere such as sulfer, fluorine, sodium and ch|orine. These elements are found in aerosol sprays, detergents, bleaches, air fresheners, paint and varnish removers, refrigerants and many other household products. In addition, excessive dust and lint may affect the operation of the unit, see the Air Filter Maintenance section in this manual.
- The ambient air temperature must also be considered when installing this unit. In Efficiency Mode the air temperature needs to be above 45°F/7°C and below 120°F/48°C for heat pump operation. If the air temperature falls outside these upper and lower limits, the electrical elements will activate to meet the hot water demand and the heat pump does not operate in either Efficiency or Hybrid Mode.
STEP 3: REMOVING THE OLD WATER HEATER
- Read each installation step and decide if you have the necessary skills to install the water heater. Only proceed if you can safely perform the work. If you are not comfortable, have a qualified person perform the installation.
- Locate the water heater’s circuit breaker and turn it OFF (or remove the circuit’s fuses).
- On the old water heater, remove the electrical junction box access panel. Using a non-contact circuit tester, check the wiring to make certain the power is OFF.WARNING! Working on an energized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock.
- Disconnect the electrical wires.
- Open a hot water faucet and let the hot water run until it is cool (This may take 10 minutes or longer).WARNING! Be sure the water runs cool before draining the tank to reduce the risk of scalding.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose in a drain, outside, or a bucket. (Note that sediment in the bottom of the tank may clog the valve and prevent it from draining. If you can’t get the tank to drain, contact a qualified person.
- Turn the cold water supply valve OFF.
- Open the drain valve on the water heater.
- Also open a hot water faucet to help the water in the tank drain faster.
- When the tank is empty, disconnect the Temperature & Pressure (T&P) Relief Valve discharge pipe. You may be able to reuse the discharge pipe, but do not reuse the old T&P Relief Valve. A new T&P Relief Valve comes installed on your water heater (or on some models, is in the carton with the water heater).
- Disconnect the water pipes. Many water pipes are connected by a threaded union which can be disconnected with wrenches. If you must cut the water pipes, cut the pipes close to the water heater’s inlet and outlet connections, leaving the water pipes as long as possible. If necessary, you can make them shorter later when you install the new water heater.
- Remove the old water heater.WARNING! Use two or more people to remove or install water heater. Failure to do so can result in back or other injury.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE NEW WATER HEATER
- Completely read all instructions before beginning. If you are not sure you can complete the installation, DO NOT RETURN THIS UNIT TO THE STORE.
- Seek assistance from any of the following sources:Schedule an appointment with a qualified person to install your water heater.
- Call our Technical Assistance Hot- line at 1-877-817-6750
- Install a suitable drain pan that is piped to an adequate drain.
- Set the water heater in place taking care not to damage the drain pan.NOTICE! Most codes require setting the water heater in a suitable drain pan piped to an adequate drain. The drain pan helps avoid property damage which may occur from condensation or leaks in the piping connections or tank. The drain pan must be at least two inches wider than the diameter of the water heater. Install the drain pan so the water level is limited to a maxi- mum depth of 1-3/4” (45mm).
- Verify that the water heater is set in place properly. Check that:
- The T&P Relief Valve will not be in contact with any electrical parts.
- There is adequate space to install the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe and that it can be piped to a sepa- rate drain (and not into the drain pan).
- There is adequate space to install proper condensate drain piping.
- There is adequate access and space around the water heater for future maintenance. A minimum clearance of 6 inches must be maintained from all sides and 6 inches from the top for access to the air filter.
- Unit is level to allow proper con- densate drainage. An unlevel unit may lead to condensate draining inproperly and resulting in property damage.
- DO NOT CONNECT ELECTRICAL WIRING UNTIL YOU ARE INSTRUCTED TO DO SO.
NOTICE! Connecting electrical power to the tank before it is completely full of water (water must run FULL STREAM from a hot water tap for a full three minutes) will cause the upper heating element to burn out.
STEP 5: CONNECTING THE CONDENSATE PUMP WHEN REQUIRED
NOTE: If no floor drain is available or the drain is above the level of the condensate line, a condensate pump must be installed.
- Follow condensate drain pump manufacturers instructions for installation. Connecting the Condensate Pump Optional Overflow Shut Off Switch
- Locate the wiring behind the condensate drain access cover by removing the 4 screws attaching the cover to the unit. Cut the loop and strip insulation off the 2 ends.
- Measure the distance from the condensate drain access cover to the condensate pump, and cut two 22 AWG wires to correct length and strip the insulation at both ends. Thread both ends through the grommet on the drain pan cover.
- Connect these 2 wires to the 2 wires on the water heater using wire nuts or other connectors. Reinstall the condensate drain access cover and keep the connection joints inside of the cover.
- Connect the free ends of the 2 wires to the shut off switch on the condensate pump in accordance with the condensate pump manufacturers recommendations.
STEP 6: INSTALL CONDENSATE DRAIN LINES
NOTE: When making condensation connections to the primary connection DO NOT over tighten! These connections should be HAND TIGHTENED ONLY. Overtightening could crack or damage the condensate drain pan.
- Plastic pipe or tubing must be used to connect the condensate drain to a suitable drain or condensate pump.
- Condensate drain lines should be installed in conditioned areas only. Install approved insulation on the condensate drain lines to prevent condensation from forming on the outside of the drain lines.
- Condensation drain lines installed in areas that are subject to freezing temperatures should be wrapped with a nationally recognized heat tape. Install per manufacturer’s instructions.
- Do not connect condensate drain lines with other drain or discharge lines into a single (common) pipe or line. Each line (condensate drain line, temperature and relief valve discharge pipe, etc.) should be independently run to an adequate drain.
- Slope the condensate drain lines toward the inside floor drain or condensate pump.
- The condensate drain lines and connections to the drain piping must comply with all local codes.
Use appropriate fittings and primer to cement the condensate drains to the heat pump drain pan.
- If a condensate pump is installed, it should be wired to shut off the heat pump in the event the condensate pump fails or the float switch in the pump activates (see step 5 on page 11).
- Using 3/4” PVC piping, a 90° elbow that is 3/4” slip & 3/4” NPT and an approved sealant (none supplied with unit), attach the elbow to the primary drain connection and insert the PVC pipe into the female end allowing enough length to access an adequate drain.
- Using 1/2” ID rubber or flexi- ble plastic tubing, slip one end over the secondary drain connection allowing enough length to access an adequate drain.
STEP 7: CONNECT THE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE (T&P) RELIEF VALVE / PIPE
Most T&P Relief Valves are pre- installed at the factory. In some cases, they are shipped in the carton and must be installed in the opening marked and provided for this purpose and according to local codes.
WARNING! To avoid serious injury or death from explosion, install a T&P Relief Valve according to the following instructions:
If your water heater does not have a factory installed T&P Relief Valve, install the new T&P Relief Valve that came with your water heater. Do not reuse an old T&P Relief Valve. Install a T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe according to local codes and the following guidelines:
- The discharge pipe should be at least 3/4” inside diameter and sloped for proper drainage. Install it to allow complete drainage of both the T&P Relief Valve and the discharge pipe.
- The discharge pipe must withstand 250°F (121°C) without distortion. Use only copper or CPVC pipe. Most homes use copper water pipes, but some use CPVC or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use fittings appropriate for the type of pipe in your home. Do not use any other type of pipe, such as PVC, iron, flexible plastic pipe, or any type of hose.
- Terminate the discharge pipe a maximum of six inches above a floor drain or outside the building. Do not drain the discharge pipe into the drain pan; instead pipe it separately to an adequate drain. In cold climates, terminate the discharge pipe inside the building to an adequate drain. Outside drains could freeze and obstruct the drain line. Protect the drain from freezing.
- Do not place any valve or other restriction between the tank and T&P Relief Valve. Do not cap, block, plug, or insert any valve between the T&P Relief Valve and the end of the discharge pipe. Do not insert or install any reducer in the discharge pipe.
STEP 8: INSTALL SHUT – OFF AND MIXING VALVES
- If one is not already installed, install a manual shutoff valve in the cold water line that supplies the water heater. Install the shutoff valve near the water heater so that it is readily accessible. Only use valves that are compatible with potable water. Use only full-flow ball or gate valves. Other types of valves may cause excessive restriction to the water flow.Install a Thermostatic Mixing Valve at each point-of-use (for
example, kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bath, shower). Consult the valve manufacturer’s instructions or a qualified person.
WARNING! Even if the water heater’s thermostat(s) are set to a relatively low temperature, hot water can scald. Install Thermostatic Mixing Valves at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding.
For water heaters that are fed by a solar water heating system (or any other pre-heating system), always install a Thermo- static Mixing Valve or other tempera- ture limiting device in the inlet water supply line to limit water supply inlet temperature to 120°F. Solar water heating systems can supply water with temperatures exceeding 170°F and may result in water heater malfunction.
WARNING! Hot water provided by solar heating systems can cause severe burns instantly, resulting in severe injury or death (page 4).
STEP 9: CONNECT THE WATER SUPPLY
- Determine the type of water pipes in your home. Most homes use copper water pipes, but some use CPVC or cross-linked polyethylene (PEX). Use fittings appropriate for the type of pipe in your home. Do not use iron or PVC pipe — they are not suitable for potable water.
- Connect the cold water supply using 3/4 inch National Pipe Thread ”NPT” to the blue cold water connection near the bottom of the heater
For ease of removing the water heater for service or replacement, connect the water pipes with a coupling called a union. We recommend using a dielectric-type union. Dielectric unions can help prevent corrosion caused by tiny electric currents common in copper water pipes and can help extend the life of the water heater.
In order to optimize efficiency of this unit, it is not recommended for use with a recirculation loop. Using this in a recirculation loop may cause the unit to run excessively.
IF YOU HAVE COPPER PIPES:
If your home has copper water pipes, you can solder the water pipe connections or use SharkBite or push-fit type of fittings that don’t require soldering. Check with local plumbing officials to determine what types of pipe materials are suitable for your location. Do not use lead-based solder.
NOTICE! Do not solder pipes while they are attached to the water heater. The water heater’s inlet and outlet connections contain non-metallic parts which could be damaged. The proper way to connect the water heater to copper water pipes is as follows
Solder a short length of pipe (about a foot or so) to a threaded adapter using only 95/5 tin-antimony or equivalent solder. Attach the threaded adapters to the water heater’s connections (using Teflon tape or pipe joint compound). Connect the home’s water pipes by soldering, keeping the connections at the water heater cool with wet rags.
NOTE: Do not over apply joint compound.
NOTICE: This water heater model contains an outlet connection (J-tube) that has an orientation mark that must line up with arrow (in a 12 o’clock position).
- Connect the hot water supply using 3/4 inch NPT to the hot water outlet. Follow the same connection guidelines as for the cold water supply.
- Install insulation (or heat tape) on the water pipes especially if the indoor installation area is subject to freezing temperatures. Insulating the hot water pipes can increase energy efficiency.
- Double check to make sure the hot and cold water pipes are connected to the correct hot and cold water fittings on the water heater
- If needed, install (or adjust) the home’s Pressure Reducing Valve to 50-60 psig and install a Thermal Expansion Tank.
STEP 10: VERIFY CONNECTIONS AND COMPLETELY FILL TANK
To remove air from the tank and allow the tank to fill completely with water, follow these steps:
- Remove the aerator at the nearest hot water faucet. This allows any debris in the tank or plumbing system to be washed out.
- Turn the cold water supply back on
- Open a hot water faucet and allow the water to run until it flows with a full stream.
- Let the water run full stream for three full minutes.
- Close the hot water faucet and replace the aerator.
- Check inlet and outlet connections and water pipes for leaks. Dry all pipes so that any drips or leaks will be apparent. Repair any leaks. Almost all leaks occur at connections and are not a tank leak.
STEP 11: MAKE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
WARNING! Working on an energized circuit can result in severe injury or death from electrical shock.
NOTICE! Do not turn electrical power on unless you are sure all of the air is out of the tank and the tank is completely full of water. Although this water heater is equipped with ”Dry Fire” protection, be certain all air is purged from the tank before making any electrical connections.
- Be sure the electrical power to the water heater is turned OFF at the circuit breaker panel (or remove the circuit’s fuses).
- Using a non-contact circuit tester, check the wiring to make certain the power is OFF.
- This water heater requires a 240/208 VAC single phase 30 amp power supply, at 60Hz. Check the water heater’s data plate and ensure that the home’s voltage, wiring size (ampacity) and circuit breaker rating and type are correct for this water heater. Refer to the wiring diagram located on the water heater for the correct electrical connections. Ensure that wire sizes, type, and connections comply with all applicable local codes. In the absence of local codes, follow NFPA-70 and the current edition of the National Electric Code (NEC).
- If metal conduit is used for the grounding conductor:
- The grounding electrode conductor shall be of copper, aluminum, or copperclad aluminum. The material shall be of one continuous length without a splice or joint.
- Rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, or electrical metallic tubing may be used for the grounding means if conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings approved for grounding.
- Flexible metal conduit or flexible metallic tubing shall be permitted for grounding if all the following conditions are met:
- The length in any ground return path does not exceed 6 feet.
- The circuit conductors contained therein are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 30 amperes.
- The conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings approved for grounding.
- If metal conduit is used for the grounding conductor:
- Remove the cover on the electrical junction box on the side of the water heater.
- Install wiring in an approved conduit (if required by local codes). Use a UL listed or CSA approved strain relief to secure the electrical wiring to the water heater.
- Connect the ground wire to the green ground screw. Connect the home’s two power wires to the water heater’s two power wires. Use suitable wire nuts or other approved means to make the power connections.
- Replace the junction box cover and secure with the screw provided.
WARNING! Be sure cover is secured to reduce the risk of fire and electric shock.
The water heater is now ready for normal operation. To keep your water heater working safely and efficiently and extend its life, perform.
START UP AND OPERATION
NOTE: The default operating mode is Hybrid.
PRIOR TO BEGINNING OPERATION:
Air filter is factory installed with tabs oriented down for shipping. Please see maintenance section for instructions on removal, cleaning and replacing.
- Turn on electrical power to the water heater.
NOTICE: The water heater will conduct a system diagnostic (approximately 8 minutes) each time power is applied from an off state. Normal operation will begin after the system diagnostic has been completed.
- Once the diagnostic sequence has finished, the fan should turn on. This typically takes 8 minutes, (the User Interface Module will display “-”, “–”, “—” repetitively during this period).
NOTICE: The heat pump’s fan will not turn on if the incoming water temperature is less than 59°F/15°C and/or the ambient air temperature is above 120°F/15°C, or below 45°F/7.2°C. Should the internal diagnostics detect a problem with the heat pump, an error code will be displayed.
- Set the desired operational mode. For typical installations, the factory default mode, Hybrid Mode offers the best combination of efficiency and hot water delivery.
STEP 12: ADJUSTING THE TEMPERATURE
With the installation steps completed, you may adjust the water heater’s temperature setting if desired.
- The water heater’s temperature setting has been factory set to approximately 120°F to reduce the risk of scald injury. You may wish to set a higher temperature to provide hot water for automatic dishwashers or laundry machines, to provide more hot water capacity, and to reduce bacterial growth. Higher tank temperatures (140° F) kill bacteria that cause a condition known as “smelly water” and can reduce the levels of bacteria that cause water-borne diseases.
WARNING! Higher temperatures increase the risk of scalding, but even at 120°F, hot water can scald
If you increase the water heater’s temperature setting, install Thermostatic Mixing Valve(s) at each point-of-use to reduce the risk of scalding.
To adjust the water heater’s temperature setting:
- The water temperature setting can be adjusted by using the Up and Down buttons on the UIM (User Interface Module). Using the up or down buttons, cycle through the available temperature set points until the desired temperature is displayed. The temperature setting will blink on the display; press the Mode/Enter button to confirm the selection.
- The available temperature set points can be cycled through quickly by pressing and holding the Up button.
- Please allow adequate time for the heater to provide hot water.
WARNING! If you have increased the temperature setting and the Thermostatic Mixing Valves are not set properly (or not installed) you could scald yourself while checking the temperature.
- Check water temperature at several points of use in your home (for example, bathtub faucet, shower, or lavatory sink) and adjust the Thermostatic Mixing Valves as needed. If you aren’t sure how to adjust the Thermostatic Mixing Valve settings, or aren’t sure if you have Thermostatic Mixing Valves, contact a qualified person.
POST INSTALLATION REVIEW
- Understand how to use the User Interface Module to set the various modes and functions.
- Hybrid Mode is the recommended Operating Mode. Understand the various Operating Modes and which mode may be best, based on ambient temperature and hot water demands. Understand the importance of routine inspection/ maintenance of the condensate drain pan and lines. This is to prevent any possible drain line blockage resulting in the condensate drain pan overflowing.
NOTE: If water is coming from the overflow slot of the condensate drain access cover, this indicated that both condensate drain lines may be blocked and immediate action is required.
- To maintain optimal operation, check, remove and clean the air filter as needed.
- The Installation Instructions and Use and Care Guide should be kept with the water heater for reference.
WATER TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT
The water temperature can be adjusted from 95°F / 35°C to 150°F / 65.5”C. Use the Up and Down Buttons on the front panel to set the desired temperature (figure 26, page 19). The setting temperature will blink on the display, press Mode/Enter button to confirm.
The water temperature can be adjusted quickly by pressing the ”Temperature Up“ button and holding for three seconds.
NOTE: Before attempting to adjust the thermostat, read the “Water Temperature Regulation” section. If the instructions are not clear, contact a qualified person.
NOTE: For increased water demand, switching (temporarily) to Hybrid Mode or Electric Mode will decrease the recovery/re-heat time. Be sure to switch back to the desired operational mode when finished.
Operating Mode Descriptions
The operating modes can be changed sequentially by pressing the Mode/ Enter button. The Operation Mode Indication Light will turn on when the relevant mode is selected.
This unit is equipped with technology that senses the hot water demand from the unit. While in Efficiency or Hybrid mode, during normal usage, the unit will operate the heat pump for maximum efficiency. In the Hybrid mode during periods when the water usage is above normal, this unit has the ability to use one element (upper or lower) and the heat pump simultaneously to help improve recovery. This transition is seamless and will go unnoticed.
Efficiency Mode – Provides the highest efficiency and lowest cost operation by using only the heat pump for heating. Recovery time and efficiency will vary with ambient temperature and relative humidity. Efficiency will be greatest, and recovery quickest, when both are high. At lower temperatures and relative humidity levels, efficiency will be lower and recovery will take longer. Heat pump operation is allowed between 45°F / 7.2”C to 120”F / 48.8”C ambient temperature. At ambient temperatures lower than 45°F / 7.2°C and greater than 120°F / 48.8°C, the heat pump will not operate. Similarly, if the water temperature in the tank is less than 59°F / 15°C, the heat pump will not operate. The unit will operate in electric mode until ambient air and water temperatures return to the safe operating range of the heat pump.
Hybrid Mode – This is the default, recommended setting, combining high energy efficiency with reduced recovery time. This mode uses the heat pump as the primary heating source. One of the heating elements (upper or lower) will provide supplementary heating if demand exceeds a predetermined level so that the set point temperature can be recovered more quickly.
Electric Mode – The water heater functions as a conventional electric unit, relying on only the elements for heat. This mode may be useful in periods of increased hot water demands. Electric Mode will remain for 48 hours before reverting back to default mode setting.
Vacation Mode – The controller will maintain a 60°F tank temperature while in Vacation setting. This mode is recommended when the water heater is not in use for a long period of time, to minimize energy consumption and prevent the water heater from freezing during cold conditions.
To enter Vacation Mode – Press and hold the up button. If selected, the unit will default to 7 days, but you will be able to adjust the number of days by pressing the up and down 4 arrows; press the Mode/ Enter button to confirm the number of days. When set time for Vacation Mode has completed, UIM will automatically return to last mode selected.
CAUTION! Hydrogen gas builds up in a hot water system when it is not used for a long period (two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable. If the hot water system has not been used for two weeks or more, open a hot water faucet for several minutes at the kitchen sink before using any electrical appliances connected to the hot water system. Do not smoke or have an open flame or other ignition source near the faucet while it is open.
NOTE: When Vacation Mode is selected, the vacation timer will be displayed. Press the Up and Down button to modify the timer to desired number of vacation days (setting range: 1 to 99 days). The vacation timer will blink on the display; press the Mode/Enter button to confirm the vacation timer. To deactivate Vacation Mode, press the Mode/Enter button to switch to the desired mode.
NOTE: Do not shut off power to the unit for extended periods of time.
If power must be turned off for an extended period of time, drain the tank completely.
°F/°C Switch – Press “Temperature Down” button and hold for 3 seconds to switch temperature unit between Fahrenheit and Celsius
Remote Access Enable/Disable:
Press “Mode/Enter” button and hold for 3 seconds. The power saver feature will be activated and the display will show “rA”, and the setting temperature alternatively. This feature allows the unit to be monitored and controlled using the Connectivity Port and a separate control module.
To deactivate Remote Access, press “Mode/Enter” button and hold for 3 seconds.
Heat pump defrosting indication:
There will be frost accumulating on the evaporator when the heat pump is operated under low ambient temperatures. The controller will order the unit to enter into defrosting cycle to optimize the heat pump operation performance. During the defrosting period, the user interface module will display “ICE” as an indication.
Out of heat pump operation range:
The user interface module will display “HPO” as an indication that the ambient and/or water temperature condition is out of the heat pump operation range.
NOTE: The display will go into “Sleep Mode” for energy saving if there is no operation on any button for 15 minutes. All the display and lights will be turned off except for the “Operational Mode Indication Light”, which will remain illuminated while the unit is powered on. The unit can be awakened by pressing any button.
Your Heat Pump Water Heater is Smart Grid capable. Contact your local electric utilities company for participation and plug in module availability and to learn more about potential energy savings opportunities.